Change or rekey · York Height
Deadbolt Installation in York Height
The back door has a deadbolt in name only: a short bolt, a thin brass strike held by two little screws, and a jamb you can flex with your palm.
In plain words
For a main exit door the hardware choice has a safety side as well as a security side. A door people leave a home through should open from the inside without a key, so a single-cylinder deadbolt with an inside thumb-turn is the standard fit rather than a bolt keyed on both faces. Where glass sits close to the lock, the answer is a captive thumb-turn, laminated glass, or a tested security-film system with its specified frame attachment, not a key on the inside. The locksmith explains the trade-offs, fits the lock that keeps a stranger out and the family able to leave, and shows everyone the thumb-turn.
How the visit goesThe door from the garage into the kitchen closes on a passage knob with no lock at all. Anyone who opens the garage is one turn of a handle from the house, and the insurance renewal form has a question about exactly that.
Deadbolt Installation
How the visit goes
Glass, sidelights and what is within reach
Glass changes the conversation about which deadbolt to fit. A pane in the door or a sidelight within an arm's reach of the lock means an inside thumb-turn could be reached by breaking the glass, which is why double-cylinder deadbolts are sometimes suggested. The locksmith measures the distance from the glass to the lock, notes whether it is tempered, laminated or plain, and lays out the options: a captive thumb-turn that needs a key only when you choose, a laminated pane or a tested security film that can delay an arm, or moving the bolt height. The aim is a door that keeps a stranger out and still lets everyone inside leave with one turn of the hand.
Marking and boring a fresh door
With the height agreed, the paper template is folded over the door edge and the two centres are marked: the cross bore on the face and the edge bore on the stile. A boring jig clamps over the door so the hole saw cannot wander, and the cross bore is cut from both faces to leave clean veneer or skin on each side. The edge bore is drilled with a 25 mm bit through the stile until it meets the larger hole. The locksmith then traces the bolt faceplate on the edge and chisels a shallow mortise so the plate sits flush, keeping the cut inside the lines so the edge stays sound.
A frame that now holds the bolt
Behind the new strike plate is the part of the job you cannot see and will never need to think about. The pocket has been bored deep enough for the bolt to seat fully, the plate has been let into the jamb so it sits flush, and the long screws reach through the jamb into the framing behind it. On a door that had been forced or had stripped screw holes, a full-length reinforcer may sit under the strike. If you press the jamb with your palm now, it does not flex. That stiffness is what a bolt needs to do its work, and it is the reason the installation took as long on the frame as on the door.
Deadbolt Installation
In the van
Sharp chisel and mallet
Boring jig and 54 mm hole saw
Rekeying pins and key blanks
Dry PTFE lubricant
Bolt faceplate or drive-in collar
Deadbolt Installation
What affects the quote
Rental and building requirements
Matching a building's keyway, providing keys to a landlord or fitting a lock that a condominium corporation specifies can add hardware or bench work, each shown as its own item.
Hardware supplied by you or by the locksmith
If you have already bought the lock, the quote covers labour and any adaptation of the door to that kit. Hardware supplied from the van is listed separately with its grade and finish.
Storm door or restricted clearance
A tight storm door, a narrow lock stile or a decorative panel at bolt height can require low-profile trim or a shifted position, which is settled and quoted at the assessment.
What to have ready
- Would you like a keyed deadbolt, a keypad, or a smart lock you can control from a phone?
- Which doors do you want a deadbolt on, and does each one already have a bolt or only a knob?
- Do you own the home, rent it, or manage it for someone else?
Deadbolt Installation: questions
QuestionsDoes a deadbolt work with a storm door or screen door?
It does, with one check: the thumb-turn and the outside cylinder have to clear the storm door when it closes. Most storm doors leave enough depth, but a low-profile deadbolt trim is chosen where the gap is tight. The storm door's own latch is separate and does not replace a bolt on the main door, since a screen frame gives little resistance on its own.
What is the difference between a deadbolt and the lock in my door knob?
The knob or lever holds the door shut with a spring latch: a bevelled tongue that snaps into the frame and can be pushed back by anything slid into the gap. A deadbolt is a solid rectangular bar driven by the key or thumb-turn alone, and when fully thrown it locks in place so it cannot be pressed back from the edge. The knob keeps the door closed; the deadbolt keeps it locked.
Should I choose a single-cylinder or a double-cylinder deadbolt?
For any door people leave the house through, a single cylinder with an inside thumb-turn is the sensible choice, and provincial building rules for dwellings call for exit doors that open from inside without a key. Double-cylinder bolts are keyed on both faces and are sometimes proposed where glass is near the lock, but a captive thumb-turn, laminated glass, or a tested security-film system with its specified attachment, addresses that without a key on the inside.
Related services
- Lock Replacement & UpgradeThe century home's original mortise lock takes a key the size of a spoon, sticks in humid weather and has worn its strike to a groove.
- Vintage Mortise Lock ServiceSomeone painted the door years ago without removing the hardware.
- Smart Lock InstallationYou have just taken possession of the house and the previous owners handed over a keypad deadbolt with a code nobody wrote down and an app account you cannot get into.