Change or rekey · Parkway West
Lock Replacement & Upgrade in Parkway West
The century home's original mortise lock takes a key the size of a spoon, sticks in humid weather and has worn its strike to a groove.
In plain words
After a break-in or an attempt, the door tells a story, and the new hardware should answer it. Splintered wood around the strike means the jamb gave before the lock did, so the repair pairs a heavier deadbolt with a reinforced strike and 75 millimetre screws that reach the framing behind the jamb. A bent bolt or cracked housing is replaced with a graded deadbolt whose bolt has a hardened core. A knob lock that was bumped or forced is swapped for a set with better pins. The aim is a whole opening that resists force, not merely a shinier lock.
How the visit goesSomeone tried the back door while you were away. The jamb is splintered around the strike, the bolt is bent, and the knob turns with a grinding feel. Everything held, barely, and you want hardware that would do better next time.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
How the visit goes
The door and frame around the lock
A new lock inherits whatever the door and frame are doing, so both get a look. The locksmith checks whether the door has dropped on its hinges, whether weatherstrip is pushing it out of square, and whether the bolt lands squarely in the strike pocket or rubs its edge. The pocket depth matters as well: a bolt that reaches the back of a shallow pocket is not fully thrown. Hinge screws, a jamb split from an old forced entry and a strike held by short screws are all noted, because the visit will tidy them up so the new hardware works as designed.
Setting and reinforcing the strike
The strike side is where a replacement earns most of its value. With the door closed, the bolt is thrown and its mark checked against the pocket so the strike can be positioned to accept the full throw without rubbing. A shallow pocket is deepened until the bolt seats to its stop. Then a reinforced strike or a strike box is fitted using 75 millimetre screws that pass through the jamb and bite into the framing behind it, which is what stops a jamb splitting under a kick. Where an old forced entry has cracked the wood, it is glued and dowelled or a repair plate is fitted first.
A smart lock with its backup arranged
A keypad or smart deadbolt leaves the visit with codes set for each person, auto-lock and alerts configured, and any phone pairing confirmed while the locksmith is there to check it. You are shown the low-battery signal so you recognise it, and the type of battery the maker calls for. The mechanical override key is the piece to look after: keep it on a keyring or with a neighbour rather than inside the home it opens. A second person's code is set up before the locksmith leaves, so a flat phone or a forgotten code is never a reason to stand on the porch.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
In the van
Key blanks and key cutter
Manufacturer-approved cylinder lubricant
Boring jig and hole saws
Chisels, mallet and hand screwdrivers
75 millimetre strike and hinge screws
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
What affects the quote
Smart lock setup
Fitting a keypad or smart deadbolt includes programming codes, pairing to a phone or hub and calibrating the bolt, which is time on top of the mechanical installation and is named in the quote.
Strike reinforcement and jamb repair
A reinforced strike with long screws is a modest addition; repairing a jamb split from a forced entry, or fitting a strike box into a frame that has never had one, adds labour and materials.
Type of lock
A knob set, a lever, a deadbolt, a full handleset with deadbolt above, a patio door lock and a keypad or smart deadbolt each carry a different hardware cost and take different time to fit.
What to have ready
- Do you want every exterior door to open with one key?
- Are you interested in a keypad or smart lock on any door?
- Is there a sliding patio door or French door to include?
Lock Replacement & Upgrade: questions
QuestionsIs a smart lock a good upgrade, and what happens when the batteries run out?
For a household with many people coming and going, codes that can be added and removed are a real convenience. Behind the keypad it is still a deadbolt, so grade and strike matter as much as ever. Batteries typically last months and the lock warns you as they fade; depending on the model, a dead battery is handled with a mechanical override key or with external contacts for a temporary power source, so it is worth confirming which one your lock uses.
Should I rekey my locks or replace them?
Rekey when the hardware is sound and the problem is the key: a lost copy, a move, or too many keys for one house. Replace when the mechanism itself is worn, the housing or bolt is damaged, the grade was never suitable for the entrance, or you want a different function, finish or a keypad. Many visits do both, keeping good locks and rekeying them while replacing the tired ones, all to one key.
I have just bought a house. What should I do about the locks?
Assume that copies of the old keys exist somewhere and act on the day you take possession. Walk every exterior door with the locksmith, keep hardware that is sound and have it rekeyed to a new key, replace hardware that is worn or too light, and add a deadbolt to any door that lacks one. Ask for everything to be keyed alike so you leave with one key and a known number of copies.
Related services
- Deadbolt InstallationThe back door has a deadbolt in name only: a short bolt, a thin brass strike held by two little screws, and a jamb you can flex with your palm.
- Vintage Mortise Lock ServiceSomeone painted the door years ago without removing the hardware.
- Smart Lock InstallationYou have just taken possession of the house and the previous owners handed over a keypad deadbolt with a code nobody wrote down and an app account you cannot get into.